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--- woodshop_cnc [2021/10/07 18:54] – drodriguez
+++ woodshop_cnc [2021/10/11 19:13] (current) – drodriguez
@@ Line 11: / Line 11: @@
 {{:shapeoko.jpg?800|}}
-The photo above depicts a (black) workshop apron with white iron-on/heat-transfer vinyl printed on the torso. One may use the apron to prevent their clothes from getting dirty with wood dust and other debris as well as storage for tools in the (four) pockets. Once complete, this workshop apron can be used to store tools and other equipment. Time for completion: Approximately 120 minutes.
+The photo above show's the lab Shapeoko XXL CNC machine, along with all of it's required components. Those components include clamps (three wood boards, three bolts, and three plastic sliders), as well as the NUC which is used to run the machine.
 ===== Motivation and Audience =====
-The purpose of this tutorial is to put lab members sewing and vinyl cutting skills to use in the creation of their own workshop apron. The apron created in this tutorial is sized in a way that allows for universal use for almost all body types. This tutorial assumes that the reader has the experience or interest in the following:
+The purpose of this tutorial is to help lab members learn and be able to operate the lab's CNC router, to use in the creation of their own wood projects. This tutorial is a general how to, for the CNC machine and there is not a specific project that will be created at the end of the tutorial. In the tutorial it is assumed that the reader has the experience or interest in the following:
-	Sewing/Stitching
 	SVG File Creation
-	Vinyl Cutting
+        Woodworking
+        CNC
 Introduction of the CNC machine is the tutorial one may use in order to be more familiar and learn the CNC machine (tutorials which will not be shown here.)
 <fc blue>
-  * Getting started with the sewing machine e.g. [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGJsSltHnVE/|video]]
+  * Understanding the Different Kind of End Mills e.g. [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA73IiT9QBE|video]]
 \\
-  * Threading the machine and bobbins e.g. [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGJsSltHnVE/|video]]
+  * What is a Touch Probe and How it Works  e.g. [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XKZZO14dAI&t=15s|video]]
 </fc>
 \\
@@ Line 34: / Line 34: @@
 	Parts List
-	Sizing and Cutting
+	Getting Familiar with the CNC (Hello World)
-	Sewing and Stitching
+	File Design
-	Vinyl Cutting and Application
+	Uploading File and Cutting
 	Final Words
@@ Line 52: / Line 52: @@
 ==== Getting Familiar with CNC Machine ====
-*The software (Carbide Motion) provided by the company Carbide 3D can be found on their website and free to download. This is the software that will be used to home and zero, control, and run the CNC machine.*
+*The software (Carbide Motion) provided by the company Carbide 3D can be found on their website and free to download. This is the software that will be used to home and zero, control, and run the CNC machine. The link for the file used in this tutorial is the following: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1c2jxW6G9fsG177ZKbmBJvaDWI12MHc8W?usp=sharing *
 === Step 1: Loading File ===
-{{:.jpg?800|}}
+{{:car1.jpg?800|}}
 Upon loading Carbide Motion software the first thing that will be required is to load the desired .nc file. DASL logo .nc file will be used for this step. Once the file is loaded the main screen should change and the file name will be displayed.
@@ Line 62: / Line 62: @@
 === Step 2: Jogging the Machine ===
-{{:.jpg?800|}}
+{{:car2.jpg?800|}}
 On the upper green tab there is an option which reads ‘jog’ this is the required next step in the Carbide Motion software. Once inside the jog tab homing of the machine is required, it is important to ensure that the work space is clear to avoid any collisions of the router head. After the machine is homed the main screen as can be seen above. These buttons allow us to control and move the router head in the x,y, and z direction. The buttons on the right which read ‘increment’ allows us to choose the speed of the router head.
@@ Line 68: / Line 68: @@
 === Step 3: Zeroing the Machine ===
-{{:.jpg?800|}}
+{{:car3.jpg?800|}}
-Place a piece of paper somewhere on the work space ensuring that it is on a hard surface. As can be seen above for this set up a sharpie is taped to the head of the router, the sharpie must hang below the end mill, the end mill can also be removed for this process but leaving it on is also fine. First the z direction will be zeroed, move the router head so it is somewhere above our piece of paper, move the head down until the tip of the sharpie is just barely touching the paper. Now on the bottom of the jog menu there is a button that reads ‘set zero’ this will open up a new menu this can also be seen above.Once in this menu the button ‘zero z’ must be pressed, this button alone and nothing else. Next the done button must be pressed to go back to the previous menu. Move the router up so it is no longer touching the paper since the zero value will not affect anything. Now the x and y directions must be zeroed. Move the router head so it is above the lower left corner of the paper; this will be the zero position. Going back to the set zero menu now the buttons ‘zero x’ and ‘zero y’ will be pressed, but not the ‘zero z’ as this value was already stored previously.
+Place a piece of paper somewhere on the work space ensuring that it is on a hard surface. As can be seen above for this set up a sharpie is taped to the head of the router, the sharpie must hang below the end mill, the end mill can also be removed for this process but leaving it on is also fine. First the z direction will be zeroed, move the router head so it is somewhere above our piece of paper, move the head down until the tip of the sharpie is just barely touching the paper. Now on the bottom of the jog menu there is a button that reads ‘set zero’ this will open up a new menu this can also be seen above. Once in this menu the button ‘zero z’ must be pressed, this button alone and nothing else. Next the done button must be pressed to go back to the previous menu. Move the router up so it is no longer touching the paper since the zero value will not affect anything. Now the x and y directions must be zeroed. Move the router head so it is above the lower left corner of the paper; this will be the zero position. Going back to the set zero menu now the buttons ‘zero x’ and ‘zero y’ will be pressed, but not the ‘zero z’ as this value was already stored previously.
 === Step 4: Running the Machine ===
-{{:.jpg?800|}}
+{{:car4.jpg?800|}}
-Now that the machine is zero we can now begin the machine. In the jog menu there is a button that reads ‘Done’, once pressed, the tab that reads ‘run’, next to the previous jog tab,must be pressed. The menu will once again change, this menu gives us the option to start, stop and pause the machine. To start press ‘start’ usually this button must be pressed 2-3 times to act
+Now that the machine is zero we can now begin the machine. In the jog menu there is a button that reads ‘Done’, once pressed, the tab that reads ‘run’, next to the previous jog tab, must be pressed. The menu will once again change, this menu gives us the option to start, stop and pause the machine. To start press ‘start’ usually this button must be pressed 2-3 times to actually start running. The completed design can be seen in the picture below. The sharpie used had a very fine point and was not adequate for this project a normal size sharpie should be better. Also ensure that the sharpie is tightly fastened so it does not move out of alignment while it is running.
-==== Sewing and stitching ====
+{{:dasldrawing.jpg?800|}}
-Note that for this tutorial white thread was used to allow easy visibility of the stich lines to the reader. It is recommended that you use the same color thread as the color of your thread for a cleaner finish. Lastly, reverse stitch for all the stitches shown in this tutorial.
+==== File Design ====
-=== Step 1: Stitch the edges of the apron ===
+*The software (Carbide Create) provided by the company Carbide 3D can be found on their website and free to download. This is the software that will be used to create the g-code for the Shapeoko CNC. The .nc file used in this step can not be linked as this would depedent on the thickness and size of the wood board used but the svg file will be attached to the following link: The purpose of this tutorial is to help lab members learn and be able to operate the lab's CNC router, to use in the creation of their own wood projects. The apron created in this tutorial is sized in a way that allows for universal use for almost all body types. This tutorial assumes that the reader has the experience or interest in the following: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/1c2jxW6G9fsG177ZKbmBJvaDWI12MHc8W*
-== Part 1 (Folding and Stitching the bottom edge) ==
+=== Step 1: Job Setup ===
-{{:sewingTutorial1.jpg?800|}}
+Once inside the Carbide Create software, there are several buttons on the left hand side that are used to create/upload an svg file. It can also be seen that in the center of the screen there is a square with grids inside of it. This is our workspace and it depicts our wood board. Before getting started our first step is to properly dimension our workspace so it matches with our board. On The left upper there is a button with a gear that reads 'Job Setup'.
-The photo above shows the bottom edge of the apron being folded to the back of the apron. The fold was approximately half an inch, any length would work, but keep in mind that the longer the fold the smaller that the final dimensions of the apron would be. This step is to stop the edges from fraying and makes the final finish look much more cleaner. The material is folded in increments along the length of the border checking if it is the half an inch length and placing a pin to hold it as we go. Next stitch the bottom edge removing the previously placed pins. Reverse stitch both the start and finish of the edge. Stitch as close to the edge of the folded as possible.
+{{:car5.jpg?800|}}
-== Part 2 (Folding and stitching the side edges) ==
+After the button is clicked the contents on the left hand corner should change as can be seen above. The first value that must be changed is the stock size. The length of the board that is being used will be the x value, with the width being the y value. Measuring tape is helpful for this step as the stock units for the software are inches but can also be changed so any measuring tool will work. Next the stock thickness value must be changed, all this simply means is to measure the thickness of our board. Calipers are recommended for this step in order to have more accurate measurements. After the material which will be cut must be selected, for this tutorial wood will be used. Below there is an option to select the machine that is being used, in DASL our CNC is the Shapeoko XXL this model must be selected. Finally the retract height must be selected, this value is how far up in the z direction the router will move when the router is travelling during cutting. The higher the value the further it will be from the base of the board. This value must be adjusted because the higher it goes in the z the job will take longer since the router head travels quite slow in the z direction. Ensure that this value is not too low while it will reduce cutting time. It can be dangerous as the endmill can hit the clamps used to hold the board or any other pultruding piece on the work space. In this tutorial the retract height value will be set at 0.400 in.
-{{:sewingTutorial2.jpg?800|}}
+=== Step 2: Importing/CreatingSVG ===
-The photo above shows the side edges being folded over to the back of the apron, the same process that we used on the bottom edge, folding over an inch and stitching those two edges.
+{{:car6.jpg?800|}}
-== Part 3 (Folding and stitching the top edge) ==
+Next is to upload the SVG File that will be used. In the left hand side there is an import tab, this allows for saved svg files to be uploaded. Once the file is selected it will appear on the workspace, this can be dragged into the desired space. It is important to keep in mind that where the part is located in the work space that is where it will be in the actual CNC space. In Carbide Create you can also create your own part but the tools are very limited; the options can be seen to the left of the workspace.
-{{:sewingTutorial3.jpg?800|}}
+=== Step 3: Creating a Tool Path ===
-Repeat the same process that we have used on the previous edges to stitch the top edge.
+Currently we are in the design phase, by now we should be happy with our part and where in the board it will cut. Now we have to create a toolpath for the router to follow. The toolpath tab is on the top left next to the design tab. This will change the window on the left to the toolpath window as seen in the picture above. They are a few options for toolpaths such as contour, carve, pocket, texture etc. For this tutorial we will be using the contour tab, contour is just defined as an outline of a curve so the router will follow all of the curves that are in our svg files and that is where the cutting will take place. Click the contour tab and the menu on the left hand side will once again change and will appear with new options. This can be seen in the picture above.
-== Part 4 (Folding and Stitching the arcs) ==
+{{:car7.jpg?800|}}
-{{:sewingTutorial4.jpg?800|}}
+First thing that must be edited while in the contour tab is the type of end mill that will be used to cut with. If the edit tab is selected a pop up with a list options will appear, the material that is being cut must first be selected then the type of end mill that is attached to the router of the CNC. Currently attached to the the lab’s CNC router is #201 ¼ inch end mill. This end mill is great for contouring lines, but for other jobs which require intricate details such as small curves or text other bits will be required, the video linked at the beginning of this tutorial is great to know which bits are for the project being worked on. Next setting is the cutting depth there is two values that must be inputted for this the start depth and the max depth, for both of these the best thing to do is to select stock top and stock bottom as we have already inputted this values in the job setup menu. Next setting that must be changed is the offset of the lines. Inside offset places the end mill inside of our created/exported lines this will mean that the part will be smaller than our original dimensions. No offset, places the endmill exactly on our created/exported lines, due to the diameter this will also cut the part smaller than the original dimensions. Outside offset solves this issue by placing the router outside of the created/imported lines and it cuts along the outer edge of the part. Depending on the part the offset must be adjusted to give the best results while cutting. For this tutorial the tab function can be ignored.
-For the arcs the step is almost identical to the edges. The only difference is that this edge is only folded backward a quarter inch and then stitch. Again any length of the fold works fine.
+For the piece that is being cut in this tutorial, two toolpaths are required, one for the outer edge with an outside offset and the cutting depth will be the same as the thickness of the board (stock bottom). For the second tool path the inner two lines will be selected; they will also have an outside offset as this will make sure a groove is cut out, the cutting depth for this toolpath is set to half the thickness of the board being cut.
-=== Step 2: Adding the apron pockets ===
+=== Step 4: Creating the G-Code ===
-== Part 1 (Stitching pocket rectangle) ==
+Finally the last step is to save the g-code so it can be transferred to the Carbide Motion software. After finishing creating all the toolpaths, the previous menu on the left hand side should appear. There is a tab that is labeled simulation  as can be seen above. If the button that reads, ‘show simulation’ is pressed it allows us to see how the part will look like on our material and how it will be cut as well. Once happy with the created toolpaths and how it is shown on simulation press save g-code this will save our file as a .nc file,  and this will be the final step for this software.
-{{:sewingTutorial5.jpg?800|}}
+==== Uploading File and Cutting ====
-Stitch one of the long edges of the pocket the same way we previously have. Fold half and inch down and stitch. Then fold the bottom edge and place pins but do not stitch this edge. Crease the edges over to ensure the fold in the material is created then remove the pins.
+=== Step 1: Uploading the File ===
-== Part 2 (Folding and stitching the pocket rectangle on the apron) ==
+In order to upload the newly created .nc file, the same steps must be followed as the hello world portion of this tutorial. The only difference for cutting is how the machine will be zeroed, this will further be explained later.
-{{:sewingTutorial6.jpg?800|}}
+=== Step 2: Clamping ===
-As shown in the picture above, put the pocket square on its front side with the fold made in the previous part facing the apron. place the bottom folded edge of the pocket 2 inches from the bottom of the apron placing pins along the way to hold it in place. It does not have to be two inches; this is all personal preference, this can be placed anywhere that looks best to the reader. Fold the sides of the packet square to the back side and make the fold meet the stitch lines that were made when stitching the side edges of the apron and place pins to hold it in place. After all the pins have been placed along the three edges stitch the edges first then stitch the bottom of the square.
+{{:car8.jpg?800|}}
-== Part 3 (Creating the pockets) ==
+Before beginning to cut it is important to ensure that the board being used is properly clamped to the CNC workspace this can seen above. Sometimes the clamps that are in the lab take some adjusting in order to ensure that the board will not move. Test out the clamps by trying to move the board with your hands, be rough as it is important to make sure the board will not slide with the force of the end mill as these can mess up the entire project.
-{{:sewingTutorial8.jpg?800|}}
-As shown in the picture above shows a meter stick placed at the edge of the side of the pocket square. Markings were made 7 inches apart for the first line then another 7 for the second and then 6 inches for the third (Make a mark at 7 inch, 14 inch, and 20 inch line). Extend this line vertically to the top and bottom edge of the pocket square and stitch along that line. Making sure to reverse stitch and the bottom and top edge of the pocket square.
+=== Step 3: Zeroing the Machine ===
-=== Step 3: Adding waist straps to the apron  ===
+Previously in this tutorial the method to zero out the x, y, and z directions was discussed. There is another way to zero the machine that is much faster and more efficient. This method is using the touch probe, the instrument can be seen above, the video linked at the beginning of this tutorial does a great job at explaining how to use the touch probe. If the probe is not available it is perfectly fine to zero the machine the same that it was discussed previously.
-== Part 1 (Making the waist strap) ==
+=== Step 4: Cutting ===
-{{:sewingTutorial9.jpg?800|}}
-Gather the waist straps that were previously cut. As shown in the picture above fold the square in half so the edges meet. Pins are not required for this step but can definitely help the stitching process be easier. Stitch the entirety of the edge. After it is stitched pick one side to be your “front” side fold the top and bottom edge of the strap over to the back side half an inch then stitch.
-== Part 2 (Applying the waist strap on to the apron) ==
-{{:sewingTutorial10.jpg?800|}}
-As shown in the picture above line up the corners of the waist strap to the corners of the previously sewn pocket square. Place pins to ensure it stays in place and stitch both of the vertical edges of the strap to the apron body. Stitch the entirety of the edge strap then reverse stitch all the way back and back down again to ensure that the straps are strong.
-=== Step 4: Adding the neck strap ===
-== Part 1 (Making the neck strap) ==
-Just like we did for the neck straps, fold the neck strap in half and stitch it together. This step does not require that the bottom and top edge folded over and stitched like the last step.
-== Part 2 (Applying the neck strap on to the apron) ==
-{{:sewingTutorial11.jpg?800|}}
-Line up the outside edge of the strap to the edge of the apron, The longer the length of the strap from the top edge of the apron the shorter the apron will fit and vise versa. Place pins to test out the desired length that fits best for you. Stitch the two vertical edges to the apron. Stitch the entirety of the edge of the neck strap then reverse stitch all the way and stitch back down again to ensure a strong stitch.
-==== Vinyl Cutting and Application ====
-=== Step 1: Importing and Sizing ===
-{{:Import_Software.jpg?800|}}
-As shown above import and select the SVG file that you would like to send to the vinyl cutter. Once imported, because we are using iron-on vinyl paper you must “mirror” or “flip” the image by clicking on the icon shown below. Once flipped, you may size the text/image you are cutting and select the location in which you would like to position the paper on the cutting mat. As seen below, the vinyl paper must be placed 1 inch from the top and 1 inch from the side of the cutting mat and the dimensions of the cut itself were 5.5 x 3 inches.
-=== Step 2: Cutting ===
-{{:Sizing_Software.jpg?800|}}
-Cut a 6 x 4 piece out your vinyl paper. You may next place your vinyl paper on the correct orientation you selected in Sure Cuts A Lot ( 1 inch by 1 inch offset) ensuring the shiny side of the vinyl paper is face down on the cutting mat. Press out any air bubbles and proceed to load the cutting mat into the vinyl cutter and begin the cutting process by sending the SVG file to the vinyl cutter. As shown by the “Cut With Cricut” icon.
-=== Step 3: “Weeding” excess vinyl ===
-{{:Weeding.jpg?800|}}
-Once the vinyl cutter has completed the cut, you may “unload” the mat. Next you are ready to remove the vinyl from the mat and start weeding out the excess vinyl to reveal your design. Use a ballpoint pin (as shown above) to pick a small piece of the vinyl and proceed to remove any excess around your lettering/design.
-=== Step 4: Applying the vinyl ===
-{{:Applying_Vinyl2.jpg?800|}}
-As shown above you may place the vinyl in your desired location to prepare the adhering process. Plug in the “at-home” iron you are using and set to a temperature/setting right under the max. Once heated, place a spare piece of fabric on top of the vinyl and press the iron to the fabric. Hold the iron to the fabric for about 15 seconds (covering your design) and allow the vinyl to attach. You may then remove the fabric, turn off the iron, and let the vinyl cool for 30 seconds to complete the application. Finally, remove the plastic of the vinyl and you are done!
+Now in order to run the machine, the same process as the hello world section of this tutorial will be followed, but now the only difference is we have to turn on the router head. There is a switch on the router which turns it on. Now the machine can be started and it will begin cutting.
 ==== Final Words ====
-{{:Complete_Apron.jpg?800|}}
+{{:car9.jpg?800|}}
-It is easy to purchase a premade and commercially sold workshop apron. However, one might often overpay or purchase an apron that may be too extreme for their needs. The apron shown in this tutorial can be made for a small fraction of the price as well as provide a practical amount of pockets (for most cases) for tool and equipment placement when working in a “shop” setting.
+In this tutorial the base for an phone stand was created using the Shapeoko CNC cutter. The stick figure portion was created using the lab's laser cutter, the time that this tutorial was created the end mill required to create such a piece is not available. Learning how to use the CNC is a very important skill to learn as it allows us to rapidly prototype a part to test out it's dimensions. Homing, zeroing, and converting vector files to g-code those are skills that can be carried over to 3D printing and laser cutter so the CNC is a great way to start.