Author: <Diego Rodriguez> Email: rodrid16@unlv.nevada.edu

Date: Last modified <02/03/21>
Keywords: <woodshop, do it yourself, apron, tools, sewing>

The photo above depicts a (black) workshop apron with white iron-on/heat-transfer vinyl printed on the torso. One may use the apron to prevent their clothes from getting dirty with wood dust and other debris as well as storage for tools in the (four) pockets. Once complete, this workshop apron can be used to store tools and other equipment. Time for completion: Approximately 120 minutes.

The purpose of this tutorial is to put lab members sewing and vinyl cutting skills to use in the creation of their own workshop apron. The apron created in this tutorial is sized in a way that allows for universal use for almost all body types. This tutorial assumes that the reader has the experience or interest in the following:

Sewing/Stitching
SVG File Creation
Vinyl Cutting

Introduction of the CNC machine is the tutorial one may use in order to be more familiar and learn the CNC machine (tutorials which will not be shown here.)

* Getting started with the sewing machine e.g. video
* Threading the machine and bobbins e.g. video

The remainder of the tutorial is presented as follows:

Parts List
Sizing and Cutting
Sewing and Stitching
Vinyl Cutting and Application
Final Words

To complete this tutorial, you will need the items listed below:

1. Shapeoko XXL In DASL
2. Carbide 3D Touch Probe In DASL
3. Carbide Create (Software) In DASL
4. Carbide Motion (Software) In DASL
5. 1/4 in. End Mill (For Router) In DASL
6. Caliper/MeterStick/Ruler In DASL
7. NUC (Computer) In DASL, but is optional

*The software (Carbide Motion) provided by the company Carbide 3D can be found on their website and free to download. This is the software that will be used to home and zero, control, and run the CNC machine.*

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Upon loading Carbide Motion software the first thing that will be required is to load the desired .nc file. DASL logo .nc file will be used for this step. Once the file is loaded the main screen should change and the file name will be displayed.

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On the upper green tab there is an option which reads ‘jog’ this is the required next step in the Carbide Motion software. Once inside the jog tab homing of the machine is required, it is important to ensure that the work space is clear to avoid any collisions of the router head. After the machine is homed the main screen as can be seen above. These buttons allow us to control and move the router head in the x,y, and z direction. The buttons on the right which read ‘increment’ allows us to choose the speed of the router head.

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Place a piece of paper somewhere on the work space ensuring that it is on a hard surface. As can be seen above for this set up a sharpie is taped to the head of the router, the sharpie must hang below the end mill, the end mill can also be removed for this process but leaving it on is also fine. First the z direction will be zeroed, move the router head so it is somewhere above our piece of paper, move the head down until the tip of the sharpie is just barely touching the paper. Now on the bottom of the jog menu there is a button that reads ‘set zero’ this will open up a new menu this can also be seen above.Once in this menu the button ‘zero z’ must be pressed, this button alone and nothing else. Next the done button must be pressed to go back to the previous menu. Move the router up so it is no longer touching the paper since the zero value will not affect anything. Now the x and y directions must be zeroed. Move the router head so it is above the lower left corner of the paper; this will be the zero position. Going back to the set zero menu now the buttons ‘zero x’ and ‘zero y’ will be pressed, but not the ‘zero z’ as this value was already stored previously.

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Now that the machine is zero we can now begin the machine. In the jog menu there is a button that reads ‘Done’, once pressed, the tab that reads ‘run’, next to the previous jog tab,must be pressed. The menu will once again change, this menu gives us the option to start, stop and pause the machine. To start press ‘start’ usually this button must be pressed 2-3 times to act

Note that for this tutorial white thread was used to allow easy visibility of the stich lines to the reader. It is recommended that you use the same color thread as the color of your thread for a cleaner finish. Lastly, reverse stitch for all the stitches shown in this tutorial.

The photo above shows the bottom edge of the apron being folded to the back of the apron. The fold was approximately half an inch, any length would work, but keep in mind that the longer the fold the smaller that the final dimensions of the apron would be. This step is to stop the edges from fraying and makes the final finish look much more cleaner. The material is folded in increments along the length of the border checking if it is the half an inch length and placing a pin to hold it as we go. Next stitch the bottom edge removing the previously placed pins. Reverse stitch both the start and finish of the edge. Stitch as close to the edge of the folded as possible.

The photo above shows the side edges being folded over to the back of the apron, the same process that we used on the bottom edge, folding over an inch and stitching those two edges.

Repeat the same process that we have used on the previous edges to stitch the top edge.

For the arcs the step is almost identical to the edges. The only difference is that this edge is only folded backward a quarter inch and then stitch. Again any length of the fold works fine.

Stitch one of the long edges of the pocket the same way we previously have. Fold half and inch down and stitch. Then fold the bottom edge and place pins but do not stitch this edge. Crease the edges over to ensure the fold in the material is created then remove the pins.

As shown in the picture above, put the pocket square on its front side with the fold made in the previous part facing the apron. place the bottom folded edge of the pocket 2 inches from the bottom of the apron placing pins along the way to hold it in place. It does not have to be two inches; this is all personal preference, this can be placed anywhere that looks best to the reader. Fold the sides of the packet square to the back side and make the fold meet the stitch lines that were made when stitching the side edges of the apron and place pins to hold it in place. After all the pins have been placed along the three edges stitch the edges first then stitch the bottom of the square.

As shown in the picture above shows a meter stick placed at the edge of the side of the pocket square. Markings were made 7 inches apart for the first line then another 7 for the second and then 6 inches for the third (Make a mark at 7 inch, 14 inch, and 20 inch line). Extend this line vertically to the top and bottom edge of the pocket square and stitch along that line. Making sure to reverse stitch and the bottom and top edge of the pocket square.

Gather the waist straps that were previously cut. As shown in the picture above fold the square in half so the edges meet. Pins are not required for this step but can definitely help the stitching process be easier. Stitch the entirety of the edge. After it is stitched pick one side to be your “front” side fold the top and bottom edge of the strap over to the back side half an inch then stitch.

As shown in the picture above line up the corners of the waist strap to the corners of the previously sewn pocket square. Place pins to ensure it stays in place and stitch both of the vertical edges of the strap to the apron body. Stitch the entirety of the edge strap then reverse stitch all the way back and back down again to ensure that the straps are strong.

Just like we did for the neck straps, fold the neck strap in half and stitch it together. This step does not require that the bottom and top edge folded over and stitched like the last step.

Line up the outside edge of the strap to the edge of the apron, The longer the length of the strap from the top edge of the apron the shorter the apron will fit and vise versa. Place pins to test out the desired length that fits best for you. Stitch the two vertical edges to the apron. Stitch the entirety of the edge of the neck strap then reverse stitch all the way and stitch back down again to ensure a strong stitch.

As shown above import and select the SVG file that you would like to send to the vinyl cutter. Once imported, because we are using iron-on vinyl paper you must “mirror” or “flip” the image by clicking on the icon shown below. Once flipped, you may size the text/image you are cutting and select the location in which you would like to position the paper on the cutting mat. As seen below, the vinyl paper must be placed 1 inch from the top and 1 inch from the side of the cutting mat and the dimensions of the cut itself were 5.5 x 3 inches.

Cut a 6 x 4 piece out your vinyl paper. You may next place your vinyl paper on the correct orientation you selected in Sure Cuts A Lot ( 1 inch by 1 inch offset) ensuring the shiny side of the vinyl paper is face down on the cutting mat. Press out any air bubbles and proceed to load the cutting mat into the vinyl cutter and begin the cutting process by sending the SVG file to the vinyl cutter. As shown by the “Cut With Cricut” icon.

Once the vinyl cutter has completed the cut, you may “unload” the mat. Next you are ready to remove the vinyl from the mat and start weeding out the excess vinyl to reveal your design. Use a ballpoint pin (as shown above) to pick a small piece of the vinyl and proceed to remove any excess around your lettering/design.

As shown above you may place the vinyl in your desired location to prepare the adhering process. Plug in the “at-home” iron you are using and set to a temperature/setting right under the max. Once heated, place a spare piece of fabric on top of the vinyl and press the iron to the fabric. Hold the iron to the fabric for about 15 seconds (covering your design) and allow the vinyl to attach. You may then remove the fabric, turn off the iron, and let the vinyl cool for 30 seconds to complete the application. Finally, remove the plastic of the vinyl and you are done!

It is easy to purchase a premade and commercially sold workshop apron. However, one might often overpay or purchase an apron that may be too extreme for their needs. The apron shown in this tutorial can be made for a small fraction of the price as well as provide a practical amount of pockets (for most cases) for tool and equipment placement when working in a “shop” setting.